LAST UPDATE: 09.07.2019
1. “What power supply do you recommend?”
– Mean Well MWP-606
– Prima Power 42PP0606 (can be bought directly from SUZO HAPP, at least in Europe)
– Mean Well RT-65A (only 65W, so double check if it’s enough for your games)
2. How do I connect the PSU to the wall socket?
The easiest way is to use a computer power cable. Strip one end of the cable, then crimp pre-insulated fork terminals and attach them to the PSU terminal block. Make sure you use a cable with 3 wires (Earth, Live, Neutral).
Usually the cable colors for America are as follows:
Ground (Earth) wire: green, or green with a yellow stripe
Neutral wire: white or gray
Single phase live wire: black
Ground (Earth) wire: green, or green with a yellow stripe
Neutral wire: white
Single phase live wire: black
Ground (Earth) wire: green with a yellow stripe
Neutral wire: blue
Single phase live wire: brown
To be 100% sure check continuity of the wire end and plug end.
3. “How should I secure the stripped power supply wires?”
Crimp M3.5 pre-insulated fork terminals.
4. Is it safe to keep the arcade power supply on my desk/floor/table?
It is extremely dangerous to keep the PSU in places where you or anyone else can accidentally touch the 110/220VAC terminals. Touching the terminals will electrocute you and can lead to death. You should ALWAYS cover the power supply terminal block, by applying a thick layer of insulation tape or by using a terminal block cover.
5. “How do I power on/power off the HAS?”
You power on/off the HAS by plugging in/unplugging the power cable from the wall socket or use a switch on the power strip (the recommended method).
6. “Does the HAS provide -5V?”
Yes, you just need a power supply that outputs -5V.
AUDIO AND VIDEO
7. “What audio/video cable should I buy?”
This depends on your setup. The most common solution is to use an 8pin mini DIN to male Scart cable, but there are other ways, too. Refer to the “Setups” page on the HAS website.
8. “Can I use the 8pin mini DIN to female Scart that is dedicated to the XRGB Mini Framemeister and plug it in to the HAS?”
No, it won’t work. The Scart head in the cable that goes into the XRGB is wired for “input”. When you connect it to the HAS, you output the video signal, so the Scart should be wired for “output”.
9. “My cable has a sync stripper, will it work?”
It depends. The sync stripper isn’t needed for the HAS, because the HAS already outputs perfectly clean and jitter-free Composite Sync. Additional sync stripper in the video chain may cause problems.
10. “I have a Taito F3, but it doesn’t sync with the XRGB mini.”
Set the CSync to “Regenerated” on the HAS.
11. “I connected the Taito F3 to the OSSC via Scart, but it doesn’t sync, and the red led on the OSSC lights up”
Taito F3 won’t work via Scart, use the HD15 connector on the OSSC, set the CSync to “buffered” and CSync level to “TTL” on the HAS; set the OSSC to AV3 (RGBS) and set the H-PLL pre and post coast settings to 4.
12. “I use the OSSC, and I can see that it syncs with the game/HAS, but I get no signal on my TV/monitor”
Your TV/monitor may be incompatible with the output produced by the OSSC. The OSSC does not use a frame buffer, which means that it cannot correct the frame timing. XRGB mini may provide better compatibility, but it also adds some lag because of the frame buffer.
13. “I use the OSSC’s HD15 port, but it doesn’t sync with the HAS”
Make sure the OSSC is set to AV3 (RGBS), the CSync on the HAS is set to buffered and the CSync level is set to TTL. It may also require tinkering with the OSSC’s H-PLL pre and post coast settings.
14. “I use the CXA2075 based Composite Video/S-Video adapter, but I get a black screen.”
Make sure the CSync on the HAS is set to buffered and the CSync level is set to TTL.
15. “How do I wire a Scart cable for the HAS?”
8pin mini DIN (XRGB mini pinout):
pin #1 – Audio – Right Channel (or leave unconnected if you use a 3.5mm jack for audio)
pin #2 – Audio – Left Channel (or leave unconnected if you use a 3.5mm jack for audio)
pin #3 – Csync
pin #4 – Ground
pin #5 – +5V
pin #6 – Blue
pin #7 – Green
pin #8 – Red
Male Scart connector:
pins #4, 5, 9, 13, 17, 18, 19, 21 – Ground
pin #2 – Audio – Right Channel
pin #6 – Audio – Left Channel
pin #7 – Blue
pin #8 – +5V
pin #11 – Green
pin #15 – Red
pin #16 – +5V through a 180 Ohm resistor
pin #20 – CSync
16. “I bought a Scart cable from “XYZ”, but it doesn’t work”
Open the Scart hood and see if the CSync is wired to Scart pin #20. Some manufacturers wire it to pin #19, which is incorrect. If you are based in Europe and your TV accepts Scart, then additionally check if pins #8 and #16 are populated – these pins are responsible for putting the TV in the RGB input mode.
17. “My BVM doesn’t sync with the HAS, the screen is rolling or is shaky.”
The BVM has a function called “VCR Mode” or “AFC Mode”, enable or disable it to see if it helps. Some BVM monitors can be picky with the signal they receive.
18. “The picture is overly bright on my PVM/BVM and isn’t very stable.”
This means that you are missing 75R signal termination on the RGBS signals on the PVM/BVM end. Enable termination to fix the issue. Some monitors may require external 75R caps to terminate the signals.
19. “I bought an 8pin mini DIN to 8pin mini DIN cable and connected the HAS with the XRGB mini, but it doesn’t sync.”
Make sure that in your cable pins connect straight through end to end. A cable with crossed wiring is incompatible and can cause damage to your equipment.
20. “I see noise/diagonal lines/interference on the screen.”
This is most likely some grounding issue. Make sure your PSU is properly grounded.
21. “I see noise/diagonal lines/interference on the screen, but it disappears as soon as I disconnect the audio cable.”
This is a grounding problem in your setup, you can fix this by using a 3.5mm audio jack Ground Loop Isolator between the HAS and the 3.5mm audio jack cable.
22. “I connected the kick harness, but buttons 5 and 6 don’t work”.
It means that buttons 5 and 6 aren’t set. Go into the HAS button reconfiguration mode and set a new button layout.
23. “Buttons on my HAS no longer register, what should I do?”
This means that the button layout isn’t set. Go into the HAS button reconfiguration mode and set a new button layout.
24. “How do I change the audio volume?”
You have a volume potentiometer on your PCB game (or volume control in the game’s test menu). For convenience, I suggest keeping the volume potentiometer somewhere in the middle and use your TV/speakers volume control instead.
25. “I installed the plexiglass case, but I cannot fully plug in the HAS to my CPS2, what is wrong?”
You must have put the plexiglass case on backwards, turn it the other way around.
26. “What connectors are installed on the HAS?”
PSU connector – 6pin JST VH
Kick harness – 6pin JST XH
Controller ports – 15pin male DSUB
AV – 8pin mini DIN (XRGB mini pinout)
Audio – 3.5mm stereo jack
27. “What type and size of screw posts do I need to secure the Saturn adapters to the HAS?”
You need a couple of DSUB screw locks with a 10~11mm long thread.
28. “I’m attempting to play Carnevil on a PVM, and it requires a CSync wire to be ran back to the gun I/O. I tried the ext sync out from the PVM, but it doesn’t seem to like it. I’m guessing I’d be better off running CSync directly from the HAS somewhere. Any suggestions on where I could tap in?”
You can tap it from CN2.
29. “I’m using a JAMMA harness extension and the HAS doesn’t seem to work properly.”
Try connecting the HAS directly to the PCB game. It’s hard to find a JAMMA harness extension that is properly wired. It’s not uncommon to see too thin power lines, miswired audio/video lines and even power lines wired to button inputs by mistake. An improperly wired JAMMA extension harness or subpar quality JAMMA extension harness will damage your equipment and can lead to fire.
30. “I’m using a 6-in-1 JAMMA selector and some buttons don’t seem to work in this setup, but they work when I connect the PCB game directly to the HAS.”
A good quality JAMMA selector board should not exhibit such issues.
31. “What’s your Sega Saturn controller adapter compatibility?”
The adapter is programmed for lagless operation and it’s compatible with official Sega Saturn joypads and arcade sticks (HSS-0104, HSS-0136, HSS-0130). 3rd party controllers/adapters work with limited luck, meaning there are models that work, and some that don’t work at all. Analog controllers (including the Sega one; HSS-0137) are not compatible.
32. “What is “CHAMMA”?”
It’s the “Chinese JAMMA” that breaks the real JAMMA standard. It accepts 6 buttons via the JAMMA edge. It’s used in the multi game PCBs, like the Pandora’s Box and similar.
33. “My HAS works fine with everything I’ve thrown at it *except* the NeoGeo MV1C, PGM, Sega JVS I/O. Does it mean that the HAS is incompatible with those boards?”
No, the HAS is perfectly compatible with those PCBs.
Your problem is with the PSU. Power supplies operate in
certain conditions (specified in your PSU datasheet), for
example, the PSU may require a certain minimum load on
the power rails (+5V being the most important), and if the
PSU isn’t sufficiently loaded, it may not work at all or give
other problems (high pitch hissing sound coming from the
PSU being one of the problems, and is a bad sign). The
games listed (along with many other modern PCB games,
like the Cave games) put very little load on the +5V line,
sometimes even less than 1A. If you have a beefy PSU,
the recommended minimum load may be even around 2A!
A workaround for this is using a different PSU or putting
additional load on the +5V line. The latter is advised only
for advanced users with some electronics knowledge and
who are confident in what they are doing. For example,
you could install a cement resistor between GND and +5V,
just calculate the load you need and choose a resistor that
can dissipate a lot of heat, so that it doesn’t become too
hot (a 5R resistor, at least 5W if you want a 1A load,
however a 5W resistor will get *extremely* hot, so a 25W
or more will do a *much* better job).
34. Does the HD15 adapter PCB (or other HAS modules)
fit underneath the plexiglass case of the HAS, or does
this need to be removed to use it?
All modules/adapters fit underneath the plexiglass case of
the HAS, they are supplied with extra spacers and bolts.
35. I get no audio with Power Instinct and Asura Blade.
Both Power Instinct and Asura Blade have the audio
signals mixed up from the factory. To make them work
with the HAS you’d need to use an adapter that fixes the
speaker +/- wiring, or re-wire it on the PCB game itself.